Indoor and Outdoor House Plants

Air Cleaning House Plants

2011-04-18T00:22:00.000-07:00

Houseplants can be very beneficial in our lives. They purify and renew our stale indoor air by filtering out toxins, pollutants and the carbon dioxide we exhale - replacing them with life sustaining oxygen!

Although it should be safe to presume that all plants are capable of removing toxins from our air, research by NASA showed that some house plants are more efficient in filtering out toxins than others. Philodendrons, Spider plants, and Pothos were found to be the most efficient in the removal of formaldehyde. Gerbera Daisies and Chrysanthemums were found to be effective in the removal of benzene, a known carcinogen.

As a rule of thumb, allow one houseplant per 100 square feet of living area. The more vigorous the plant, the more air it can filter. Keep in mind that plants will not do much to alleviate tobacco smoke or dust in the air.

Aglaonema sp. (Chinese Evergreen)
Aloe barbabensis (Aloe Vera, Burn plant)
Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plants)
Chrysanthemum sp. (Mums )
Dieffenbachia sp. (Dumbcane )
Epipremnum sp. (Golden Pothos)
Ficus sp. (Ficus)
Gerbera sp. (Gerbera Daisy)
Hedera sp. (Common English Ivy)
Philodendron sp. (Heart leaf philodendron)
Spathiphyllum sp. (Mauna Loa)

Mauna Loa, Spath ,Peace Lily

2011-04-18T00:20:00.000-07:00

Common names:
Mauna Loa Spath Peace Lily

Botanical name:
Spathiphyllum sp.

Care:
Mauna Loa's prefer partial shade and moist soil.
Minimum temperatures - 59F/15C

Prefers partial shade
Prefers Moist soil

Notes:
Fragrant flowers are produced in a spadix surrounded by a large, oval, usually white spathe. This is a very hardy house plant that tolerates neglect well. It is often seen in public areas such as malls.

P. cordatum - Heart leaf philodendron,P. selloum Lace Tree Philodendron

2011-04-18T00:14:00.000-07:00

Common names:

P. cordatum - Heart leaf philodendron (pictured) P. scandens - Heart leaf philodendron (Very similar in appearance to P. cordatum.) P. selloum Lace Tree Philodendron (pictured)

Care:
Prefers partial shade
Prefers well-drained soil

Notes:
N.A.S.A. determined that Philodendrons were among the best house plants for removing formaldehyde
from the air, especially at higher concentrations. At lower concentrations it was found that Aloe Vera removed formaldehyde more efficiently.

Philodendrons are poisonous

English Ivy

2011-04-18T00:13:00.000-07:00

Common names:

English Ivy

Botanical name:
Hedera helix

Care:
Prefers bright light. Non-variegated varieties tolerate more shade.

Prefers partial shade
Prefers well-drained soil

Notes:
This plant is poisonous .

Gerbera Daisy

2011-04-18T00:11:00.000-07:00

Common names:

Gerbera Daisy

Botanical name:
Gerbera sp.

Care:
Like many flowering plants Gerbera's prefer bright light.

Prefers sun
Prefers well-drained soil

Notes:
NASA's research shows Gerbera to be superior in the removal of benzene, a well-known carcinogen. Another plant effective in the removal of benzene is Chrysanthemum.

Ficus

2011-04-18T00:08:00.000-07:00

Common names:

Ficus

Botanical name:
Ficus sp.

Care:
Ficus prefer full sun to partial shade in fertile well-drained soil. Water moderately, sparingly when temperatures are cool.

Prefers sun
Prefers well-drained soil

Notes:
Vigorous growers these plants quickly turn into trees with visual interest.

Marble Queen , Golden Pothos

2011-04-18T00:06:00.000-07:00

Common names:

Golden Pothos Devil's Ivy "Marble Queen" (pictured)

Botanical name: Epipremnum aureum syn. Scindapsus aureus

Care:
Water regularly but less so in cold weather. Leaf drop is a good indication of over watering, the #1 killer of house plants!

Prefers partial shade
Prefers well-drained soil

Notes:
Pinch growing tips to encourage branching and some form of support will be needed. This plant placed in the top three for houseplants that remove formaldehyde from our indoor air, according to NASA studies.

Dumbcane , Leopard Lily

2011-04-18T00:04:00.000-07:00

Common names:
Dumbcane Leopard Lily

Botanical name:
Dieffenbachia sp.
Care:
Dieffenbachias prefer partial shade and well-drained soil but be sure to water regularly when actively growing.

Prefers partial shade
Prefers well-drained soil

Notes:
This plant is poisonous.

Mums

2011-04-17T23:59:00.000-07:00

Common names:
Mums

Botanical name:
Chrysanthemum sp.

Care:
Prefers sun Prefers sun
Prefers well-drained soil Prefers well-drained soil

Notes:
NASA has determined this plant to be effective in the removal of benzene, a known carcinogen.

A typical nursery plant, "Mums" are classified by their flower type: Anemone-centered, Fully Reflexed, Incurved, Intermediate, Pompon, Reflexed, Single (pictured), Spoon-type.

This plant is poisonous .

Spider Plants

2011-04-17T23:56:00.000-07:00

Common names:
Spider Plants

Botanical name:
Chlorophytum comosum

Care:
Best in bright but indirect light. Water freely when growing but sparingly otherwise.
Prefers partial shade
Prefers well-drained soil

Notes:
As the plants mature they send out thin stems up to 2 feet long. Small star shaped flowers may appear or rosettes of leaves giving the plant the appearance of spiders dangling from strings. This house plant placed in the top three of houseplants that are efficient at the removal of formaldehyde from indoor air.

Chinese Aloe , Indian Aloe

2011-04-17T23:54:00.000-07:00

Common names:
Chinese Aloe, Indian Aloe, True Aloe, Barbados Aloe, Burn Aloe, First Aid Plant, Wand of Heaven and Miracle Plant

Botanical name:
Aloe barbadensis

Care:
Aloes are succulents from the Lillicae family. The thick fleshy leaves act as water reserves in times of low rain fall. Succulents prefer well-drained soil so their roots are not always wet. Using a ceramic pot is beneficial and letting the soil dry slightly between waterings. In winter Aloe may go dormant so little water is required but it is ok to water if the plant is actively growing. Larger Aloes prefer full sun but smaller types benefit from shade during the heat of the day.
Prefers sun
Prefers well-drained soil

Notes :
Aloe was shown to be much more efficient at the removal of formaldehyde at lower concentrations than Philodendrons. Aloe is also renowned as a medicinal plant known for it's healing properties, giving it many of its nicknames.

Caution: Aloe is also known for its irritant properties.

Chinese Evergreen

2011-04-17T23:13:00.000-07:00

Common names:
Chinese Evergreen
Botanical name:
Aglaonema sp.

Care:
Chinese evergreens tolerate full shade and prefer well-drained soil. Variegated types will need more sunlight.
Tolerates shade Tolerates shade
Prefers well-drained soil Prefers well-drained soil

Notes:
An excellent plant for purifying your indoor air. It has the desirable characteristics of shade tolerance and a large leaf area.

Amaryllis -Indoor Plant

2011-04-17T04:22:00.000-07:00

Amaryllis is an easy bulb to grow. Its enormous cluster of trumpet-shape blooms may require staking to keep them upright, but blooms may last for up to 6 weeks. Keep the plant cool (60-65 degrees F) while in bloom but slightly warmer at other times when it is actively growing. It needs bright light and evenly moist soil, except when it is dormant. Force the bulb to go dormant in late summer or early fall by withholding water and placing it in a cool, dry location for a couple of months. Resume watering and move it to a warm spot to force new growth.

Plant Type:Bulb,Indoor PlantPlant

Height:1-3 feet tallPlant Width:6-12 inches wide

Special Features:Flowers,Easy to Grow

Hippeastrum 'Benfica' has deep red blooms up to 8 inches in diameter

Indoor Plants Cut Formaldehyde

2011-02-24T02:53:00.000-08:00

The sources of the toxic gas formaldehyde are building materials including carpeting, curtains, plywood, and adhesives.As it is emitted, it deteriorates the air quality, which can lead to ‘multiple chemical sensitivity‘ and ‘sick building syndrome‘, medical conditions with symptoms such as allergies, asthma, and headaches.The prevalence of formaldehyde and other volatile organic compounds (VOC) is greater in new construction.

In the study, lead author Kwang Jin Kim of Korea’s National Horticultural Research Institute compared the absorption rate of two types of houseplants, Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina) and Fatsia japonica, an evergreen shrub.

During the study, equal amounts of formaldehyde were pumped into containers holding each type of plant in three configurations: whole, roots-only with the leafy portion cut off, and aerial-only, with the below-ground portion sealed off, leaving the stem and leaves exposed.

The results showed the combined total of aerial-only and roots-only portions was similar to the amount removed by whole plants. Complete plants removed approximately 80 percent of the formaldehyde within 4 hours.

Control chambers pumped with the same amount of formaldehyde, but not containing any plant parts, decreased by 7.3 percent during the day and 6.9 percent overnight within 5 hours. As the length of exposure increased, the amount of absorption decreased, which appeared to be due to the reduced concentration of the gas.

Aerial parts of reduced more formaldehyde during the day than at night. This suggests the role played by stomata, tiny slits on the surface of the leaves that are only open during the day.

The portion of formaldehyde that was reduced during the night was most likely absorbed through a thin film on the plant’s surface known as the cuticle. Root zones of ficus removed similar amounts between night and day. However, japonica root zones removed more formaldehyde at night.

Researchers consider micro-organisms living among the soil and root system to be a major contributor to the reduction. Japonica was planted in larger pots than the ficus, which may account for the lower night reduction rate of the latter.

Pollution free house with Natural Plants: Grow them and breathe

2010-06-14T03:45:00.000-07:00

3) Phalaenopsis:

This indoor plant has the most adorable flowers which are white and pink flowers. The leaves are fleshy which can be seen at the bottom of the plant and they are less in number also. The plant has a rhizome which almost looks like a stem.

This lovely plant should be kept inside the house under artificial light, because they cannot bear the light and the heat of the sun. The flowers add to the appearance of the place and the plant also purifies the air around the house. The plant is small in size, but the flowers are quite big and wonderful.

4) The English Ivy:

The scientific name for this plant is Hedera Helix. People who have pets at home are recommended to grow these plants because they have a capacity to remove pollutants like the fecal particles and formaldehyde aerosols. The house can be kept free from harmful contaminants.

The leaves of the English Ivy differ in shape, size and color for each plant because there are many species and they require a large space to grow and lot of care has to taken while growing these plants.

These plants can be grown in the bright sun but they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. The soil has to be quite dry or well drained to grow the English ivy and extra care has to be taken when growing them inside the house because they are poisonous.

5) The Parlor Ivy:

The other name for Parlor Ivy is heartleaf Philodendron and the scientific name is Philodendron Scandens. They are very beautiful looking and also cleans the impure air inside the house. The leaves of these plants are heart shaped and dark green in color, that why they are names as heartleaf Philodendron. The leaves are so beautiful looking that they can captivate anyone looking at it.

These climbing plants are very easy to maintain and grow very easily. They filter the chemicals which are dangerous and unsafe inside the house and keep the air around fresh and clean to breathe.

6) The African Violets:

One of the most beautiful and lovely indoor plant are the African Violets. The scientific name for African violets is Saintpaulia. The Africa Violets have lovely violet flowers which make the plant look very attractive and appealing to the eye. This plant makes the house look pleasing and fresh also.

To grow this beautiful plant, a leaf cutting will do. They are available in many colors, sizes and shapes. They require only a certain amount of light and heat. These plants tend to get infected by the scale like plant eating insects called the pathetic mealy bugs, so great care has to be taken.

7) The Christmas cactus:

This plant blossoms during Christmas, and is considered a Christmas gift. This plant doesn’t resemble the Christmas tree or a cactus.

The silky flowers blossom in different colors pink, violet, red, orange and purplish red. The leaves are sharp and look pointed and lobed. The Christmas cactus requires good light and water to survive. It has a Y shape cutting which makes it look beautiful and attractive also.

8)The Yellow Goddess:

The yellow flower which is found in the plant makes the plant look so attractive that we feel that it is blessed by the Goddess of the color yellow. The name is so significantly give to this plant.

The flower is shaped like a trumpet and the base of the flower is green in color, they look so striking that we feel like gazing at them. The size of the flower varies from very small to large ones according to the different hybrid.

After planting this plant, within six to seven weeks we can find the growth which looks like a beautiful bulb shape. This plant requires light but not the sunlight direct from the sun. This plant looks very attractive in the house because it looks very small but the lovely yellow flowers grow quite large.

9) The Garlic vine:

The scientific name given to this plant is Mansoa alliacea. The specialty of this plant is that the leaves and the flowers when crushed give out a smell of the garlic and the onion. People who love onion and garlic can grow them.

This plant has got medicinal values. The garlic also consists of medicinal values to cure many health issues. The flowers, root and the leaves can be treated for many ailments like cold, sore throat, fever and breathing problems.

There is a myth among people that it is a good luck plant and sends away all the bad luck from the house. The flowers are bell shaped and lavender colored. The garlic vine is a plant which has good medicinal values and purifies the air around the house also.

10) The Peace Lily:

The name given to this plant is very suitable because they have stunning white flowers. The color white is always considered as the color of peace and harmony. The scientific name of this plant is Spathiphyllum. The beautiful flower surrounds the axis and is round in shape.

The plant grows very easily and they have flowers which grow from the bottom of the plant which makes the plant look more beautiful. The flowers feel smooth and leathery.

This plant requires temperate or low light to grow well. The soil has to be wet or dampish and direct sunlight can be avoided to save the plant from sunburns. Another quality of this plant is that it removes the dangerous effects of toluene, xylene and benzene. These are easily found in the nail polish removers, paints used at home, solvent solutions and adhesives which we frequently used harmful things. These harmful pollutants are removed when we plant the Peace Lily at our houses to improve our health.

To retain the freshness and healthy environment, any of these ten plants can be bought and planted.

Pollution free house with Natural Plants

2010-06-06T03:50:00.000-07:00

There are some natural plants which can fight pollution inside the house, which many people are not aware about. Instead they unnecessarily try to clean their houses using vacuum cleaners and cleaning solutions which are harmful and costly.

In spite of using these modern equipments we find we are not free from diseases, dirt and dust which contaminate the air around us.

When compared to the vacuum cleaners, plants do not make noise like them. Maintenance of a plant is very cheap but at the same time we will have to shed many dollars to maintain a vacuum cleaner.

The best way to control pollution at home is through these ten plants which can be bought.

1) Feston Rose Plant :

This plant has a tendency to endure blazing heat or heavy winds. It can survive even with less water and in salty conditions. The leaves of these plants give out a very pleasing and strong fragrance, which leaves the house smelling fresh and also removes impurities from the air.

A lovely and low maintenance indoor plant which can be considered is the Lantana camara or the Feston rose plant. The uniqueness of this plant is that it produces numerous flowers which have a variety of colors.This plant has a tendency to endure blazing heat or heavy winds. It can survive even with less water and in salty conditions. The leaves of these plants give out a very pleasing and strong fragrance, which leaves the house smelling fresh and also removes impurities from the air.

2) The Devil’s ivy:

The other name for Devil’s ivy is the Golden Pathos and the scientific name is Epipiremnum Aureum. The leaves of the plant are very striking, they are marbled and the colors of the leaves are gold, which is true to the name of the plant. The Devil’s ivy is a very fine looking vine plant.

The plant flourishes and grows even if they are not taken care. The common air pollutants like the benzene, carbon monoxide and formaldehyde is controlled by this plant, it is the best natural way to purify the air around and in the house. The plant grows downward, so it is grows at its best when kept on a ridge. This plant should be consumed internally, even by the pet dog.

CACTUS

2010-01-15T08:02:00.000-08:00

cactus (plural: cactuses, cacti) is any member of the plant family Cactaceae, native to the Americas (with one exception, Rhipsalis baccifera, which is native to parts of the Old World). They are often used as ornamental plants, and some are also crop plants for fodder, forage, fruits, cochineal, and other uses. Cactuses are part of the plant order Caryophyllales, which also includes members like beets, gypsophila, spinach, amaranth, tumbleweeds, carnations, rhubarb, buckwheat, plumbago, bougainvillea, chickweed and knotgrass.

Cacti are unusual and distinctive plants, which are adapted to extremely arid and/or semi-arid hot environments, as well as tropical environments as epiphytes or hemi-epiphytes . They show a wide range of anatomical and physiological features which conserve water. Their stems have adapted to become photosynthetic and succulent, while the leaves have become the spines for which cacti are well known.

Houseplant Problems and answers

2010-01-15T07:29:00.000-08:00

Plant problems are common- outdoors and indoors. And some of the problems are similar- too much water, too little water, insects, plant disease to name a few. It should not surprise you then to realize that treatment is also similar. It's simply done inside versus outside. For many problems like too much or too little water, the remedy is simple and easy to apply. Identifying the cause of the problem comes before the cure.
Here are some of the most common houseplants problems and what you can do about them:
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Symptom: Leaves are turning yellow Possible causes:

This is a common problem. Unfortunately this may be due to a number of problems including too much or too little light, and too much fertilizer. It could also be caused by too much water.
What to Do: In the order listed above, adjust your plants environment. Hold off adding any additional fertilizer until the problem is resolved. Watch carefully to see how your plant responds.

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Symptom: Base of stem is soft or mushy Possible cause:

This is a common result of over-watering. What to Do: Let the surface of the soil dry out between waterings. If the pot does not have drainage holes, re-pot your plant into one that does. While re-potting, make sure to use soil that drains well. Add coarse sand to improve drainage.

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Symptom: Leaves tips turning brown Possible cause:

Like yellowing leaves, there are several causes of this. The most common cause is too much or too little water. Too much fertilizer is also a common cause.
What to Do: Follow the proper procedure for watering your houseplants. Hold off adding fertilizer for three to four weeks. Repot in fresh soil.

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Symptom:Dry and brittle leaves Possible cause:

Too little water or low humidity.
What to Do: Follow the proper procedure for watering your houseplants. Increase the humidity in your home. Use plant misters. More on Humidity.

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Symptom: Leaf Drop
Possible cause: Too much sun or fertilizer. Too much or too little water. Exposure to cold or draft.
What to Do: Follow the proper procedure for watering your houseplants. Hold off adding fertilizer for three to four weeks. If you have your plant in a sunny window, move it to a location with less light. Check the temperature of where you have your plant.

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Symptom: Leaf Drop
Possible cause: Too much sun or fertilizer. Too much or too little water. Exposure to cold or draft.
What to Do: Follow the proper procedure for watering your houseplants. Hold off adding fertilizer

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Symptom: Yellow or Brown Spots on Leaves Possible cause:

Too much sun or too much water. What to Do: If the plant is in a sunny, southerly window move it to an area with less light. Check to see if the soil is too wet.

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Symptom: Slow Plant Growth Possible cause:

Too little sunlight, water or fertilizer. What to Do: Provide more direct sunlight or gro-light. Add water. Add liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks.

Purchasing an Interior Plant

2009-04-22T05:53:00.000-07:00

Select only those plants that appear to be free of pests. Check the undersides of the foliage and the junction of leaf and stem for signs of insects or disease. Select plants that look sturdy, clean, and well-potted. Choose plants with healthy foliage. Avoid plants with yellow or chlorotic leaves, brown leaf margins, wilted foliage, spots or blotches, or spindly growth. In addition, avoid those with torn leaves. Plants that have new flower and leaf buds along with young growth are usually of superior quality.

Optimal light and watering requirements are usually included on the tag with the plant. Make sure your interior can meet the requirement from natural sunlight. If not, artificial lighting may be required.

How to Grow Bamboo Houseplants

2009-04-08T04:12:00.000-07:00

Growing Bamboo as houseplants, has become somewhat of the rage. It's popularity has increased steadily. Bamboo is easy to grow with little attention, and thrives in almost any light. Native to China, Bamboo is the favorite food of Panda Bears. There are several hundred varieties of bamboo.
When grown indoors as houseplants, bamboo is planted in containers filled with decorative stones. Water is added and voila..................you have a beautiful green plant.
You can also grow some varieties indoors in soil.
Bamboo is a lucky symbol, bringing you good fortune. This is a major cause to its popularity. It is most notably a symbol to be lucky in love.

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Propagation:
Bamboo can be grown from cuttings. Select young canes and root in water.
Bamboo is also propagated from Rhizomes. The Rhizomes should be planted in large containers. The basic varieties are categorized as clumping or running which describes the growth of the plants. Clumping varieties are best for indoors.

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Care and Maintenance:
Bamboo Grown in Water:
Place rooted canes in a container filled with decorative stones. Fill the container with water. The water should be replaced routinely. Fertilizers are not needed. Place the plant in full, partial, or filtered light. The plant will grow slowly.
Bamboo Grown Indoors in Soil:
Clumping varieties work best. Select a large container with holes in the bottom for drainage. Bamboo likes loose and rich soil that drains well. Use plenty of peat moss and other loose medium. Fill partially with soil. Plant the rhizomes an inch or two deep. If you have a small plant, plant it in the container about level with the depth the roots currently are at. Water thoroughly, and keep soil moist.
Place the plant in full to partial sunlight. Water when the soil begins to dry out. At no time should the rhizomes be allowed to be wet. When growing in soil, apply a general purpose fertilizer, or one high in nitrogen on an occasional basis. Plant spikes work well.
Whether grown in water, or in soil, plants should be long lived.

Indoor Plants Can Reduce Formaldehyde Levels

2009-04-01T02:05:00.000-07:00

The toxic gas formaldehyde is contained in building materials including carpeting, curtains, plywood, and adhesives. As it is emitted from these sources, it deteriorates the air quality, which can lead to "multiple chemical sensitivity" and "sick building syndrome", medical conditions with symptoms such as allergies, asthma, and headaches. The prevalence of formaldehyde and other volatile organic compounds (VOC) is greater in new construction.

Researchers are studying the ability of plants to reduce formaldehyde levels in the air. A study led by Kwang Jin Kim of Korea's National Horticultural Research Institute compared the absorption rate of two types of houseplants. The results of the experiment on Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina) and Fatsia japonica, an evergreen shrub, were published in the Journal of American Society for Horticultural Science.
During the study, equal amounts of formaldehyde were pumped into containers holding each type of plant in three configurations: whole, roots-only with the leafy portion cut off, and aerial-only, with the below-ground portion sealed off, leaving the stem and leaves exposed

The results showed the combined total of aerial-only and roots-only portions was similar to the amount removed by whole plants. Complete plants removed approximately 80% of the formaldehyde within 4 hours. Control chambers pumped with the same amount of formaldehyde, but not containing any plant parts, decreased by 7.3% during the day and 6.9% overnight within 5 hours. As the length of exposure increased, the amount of absorption decreased, which appeared to be due to the reduced concentration of the gas.

Growing Indoor Plants

2008-11-19T04:06:00.000-08:00

Introduction

Much of the scenic beauty of nature has been replaced by densely populated areas that sprawl for miles from urban centers. This visual pollution affects us all and leaves us with a longing for a closer connection with nature. We spend about 90 percent of our time indoors. Interior plants are an ideal way to create attractive and restful settings while enhancing our sense of well being. In addition, houseplants can be a satisfying hobby and can help purify the air in our homes. Indoor plants not only convert carbon dioxide to oxygen, but they also trap and absorb many pollutants. Many of these chemical compounds, which are released into our air through a process called “off-gassing,” come from everyday items present in our homes and offices.

To be a successful indoor gardener, you need to understand how the interior environment affects plant growth and how cultivation differs from growing plants outdoors.

Factors Affecting Plant Growth

Plant growth is affected by light, temperature, humidity, water, nutrition, and soil.

Light

Of all of the factors affecting plant growth in interiors, adequate light is by far the most important. Light is needed for plants to produce food and survive — generally, the more light available, the more food produced for growth. Light is measured in units called foot candles. One footcandle (ft-c) is the amount of light cast by a candle on a white surface 1 foot away in a completely dark room. Outdoors, the light levels on a bright day range from 10,000 ft-c in an open sunny area to 250 ft-c or less in the shade of a large tree.

It is very helpful to have a general idea of how much light is present in a given location in your house. You can get a fairly good estimate with a handheld light meter, or you can use a 35 mm camera and do the following:

Set the film speed indicator to ASA 25 and the shutter speed to 1/60th second.
Place a piece of white paper where you want to measure the light levels, aim the camera toward the paper close enough to fill the view, and adjust the f/stop so that the meter indicates a correct exposure.
Read the approximate light level from Table 1.

Table 1. Indoor light levels and appropriate f/stop settings
f/stop Setting	Light Level
f/2	40 ft-c
f/2	75 ft-c
f/4	150 ft-c
f/5.6	300 ft-c
f/8	600 ft-c
f/11	1,200 ft-c
f/16	2,400 ft-c

With the help of this table, you can obtain the light intensity reading from anywhere in your home. For example, if the f/stop setting is f/16, the approximate light level is 2,400 ft-c.

Using the light readings, your home can be divided into four areas, which have the following light levels for 8 hours per day:

Low-light areas: 25 ft-c–75 ft-c
Medium-light areas: 75 ft-c–200 ft-c
High-light areas: over 200 ft-c but not direct sunlight
Sunny light areas: at least 4 hours of direct sunlight

In your home, the amount of light in a given location is variable — it is affected by the presence of trees outdoors (may shade at certain times), roof overhangs (may shade at certain times), wall color (reflectance), window curtains, day length, time of day, and time of year.

When shopping for indoor plants, select plants for a given location based on the approximate light levels in the spot. The plant’s label will usually contain information on the light requirements of the plant. If the plant label lists “high light” but the selected area in the home does not provide adequate light, artificial light sources such as fluorescent and/or special incandescent lights may be used to supplement the natural light.

Increasing the number of hours of light exposure can also help—for example, 16 hours of light and 8 hours of dark. This extends the number of hours during which plants receive light.

While adequate light is crucial for plant growth, too much light can be damaging (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Many foliage plants are native to tropical rain forests, where light levels are low. These plants can be easily injured if exposed to strong light. Symptoms of over-exposure are upright leaves and bleached, scorched leaves. Do not place high-light sensitive plants in direct sunlight (on a porch or in front of a window). In this example, Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema) and Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia) show symptoms of high-light damage.

Indoor plants are classified according to the amount of light needed for growth. (A list of plants and their light requirements is provided in Table 3.) Look for this information in general terms on the plant’s label:

Low: minimum 25 ft-c–75 ft-c, 75ft-c–200 ft-c for good growth
Medium: minimum 75 ft-c–150 ft-c, 200 ft-c–500 ft-c preferred
High: minimum 150 ft-c–1,000 ft-c, 500 ft-c–1,000 ft-c preferred
Very high: minimum 1,000 ft-c, 1,000+ ft-c preferred

Windows with eastern exposure within the home generally provide the best light and temperature conditions for most indoor plant growth because plants receive direct morning light from sunrise until nearly midday. Footcandle readings at these windows can reach 5,000-8,000. As the morning progresses, the direct sun recedes from the room.

An eastern room is cooler than southern or western rooms because the house absorbs less radiant heat. Light from the east is cooler than that from the south or the west, and thus it causes less water loss from the plants.

Windows with southern exposure give the largest variation of light and temperature conditions. The low winter sun shines across the room for most of the daylight hours.

In the summer, when the sun is farther north than it is in the winter, the sun rises at a sharp angle in the morning and is high in the sky by noon. Direct light comes into a south window only at midday. If there is a wide overhang covering the windows outside, the sun may not enter the room at all. The sun at noon on a summer day may measure 10,000 ft-c. Indoors, however, a southern window with wide eaves on the outside will receive about the same amount of light as a window with northern exposure. Southern and western exposures are interchangeable for most plants. In the winter, most plants, except those with definite preference for northern exposure, can be placed in a room with southern exposure.

Windows with northern exposure provide the least light and the lowest temperature. Because the United States is in the northern hemisphere, it receives most of its sunlight from the south. Out of the four exposures, the northern exposure receives the least light and heat year round.

Because of the low-light levels, maintaining healthy plants can be a challenge. A northern windowsill can measure light levels as low as 200 ft-c on a clear winter day, which is optimal for some plants, such as the African violet. This exposure is best for plants with green foliage because the coloration on variegated foliage tends to disappear under low-light conditions. Although most plants grown indoors will not grow in a northern room, they may tolerate it for short periods of time.

Seasons change the amount of natural light entering through windows. For example, the summer sun reaches a higher zenith compared to the winter sun (Figure 2). Therefore, sunlight penetrates farther into a room during winter.

Figure 2. Within your home, changes in natural light penetration occur with the seasons.

How can you tell if your plant is not receiving adequate light?

The plant does not grow.
The internodes (spaces between the leaves) on the new growth are much longer than the internodes on the older part of the plant.
The new leaves are smaller than the older leaves.
The leaf color is a lighter green on the newer foliage than on the older foliage.
The older leaves are dead.

Temperature

Temperature is the second most important factor influencing plant growth in interior environments. People feel comfortable in the range of 72 degrees F-82 degrees F, and interior plants can tolerate and grow well in the 58 degrees F-86 degrees F range because most indoor plants originate from tropical and subtropical areas of the world.

Temperature and light are linked through the processes of photosynthesis and respiration. These processes can be thought of as the “yin and yang” of plant life — two parts of a circle. Photosynthesis builds sugars and starch, which are then broken down by respiration to provide energy for the development of new tissues (growth) and the maintenance of existing ones. High temperature speeds up respiration. If the plant is not producing sufficient sugars (as under low light), then high temperatures may break down what little sugars are made, leaving little to none for growth. Maintenance takes precedence over growth; therefore, under insufficient light, plants do not grow. If light is so low that sugars produced are insufficient for maintenance, the plant eventually dies.

When sugar levels are low, the plant takes nutrients and sugars from older leaves to maintain new leaves. To help plants in an indoor environment, two options are available: (1) raise light levels to increase photosynthesis and sugar production or (2) reduce night temperature to lower respiration rates and allow more sugars for growth.

What temperatures are likely to occur in homes? During the summer, air conditioning that may have been turned off at night or weekend thermostat settings that may have been raised result in higher than desirable night temperatures. During the winter, heating that may have been turned off at night or weekend thermostat settings that may have been lowered may result in lower night temperatures. Be especially careful not to allow temperatures to drop below 50 degrees F, or chill damage will result on some sensitive foliage plants (e.g., Chinese Evergreen, Aglaonema). Chill damage is manifested with the yellowing of lower leaves and/or defoliation.

Plants vary in their minimum and maximum temperature requirements. Examples of cool-loving plants suitable for locations where temperatures drop to the low 50s at night and 60s during the day are Cyclamen, Wonder Plant, Fatshedera, Japanese Aralia, and Fatsia. A list of plants and their temperature requirements is provided in Table 3.

Not all interior plants have the same temperature requirements for optimal growth. For example, Cast Iron Plant, Aspidistra, and ferns actually grow better with cooler temperatures (72°F), while other tropical plants grow best if the temperatures are 90 degrees F – 95 degrees F. Such temperatures are rarely allowed indoors.

The best temperature range for indoor plants is 70 degrees F – 80 degrees F day and 65 degrees F – 70 degrees F night.

Relative Humidity

Relative humidity is the amount of moisture contained in the air. For interior plants, relative humidity below 20 percent is considered low, 40 percent – 50 percent is medium, and above 50 percent is high. Relative humidity is a very important factor, but it is easily overlooked. In a greenhouse, relative humidity is 50 percent or higher. Rapid transpiration and water loss may result when newly purchased plants are placed in the 10 percent – 20 percent relative humidity typical of most homes (Figure 3). Most indoor plants come from the tropics where high relative humidity is common. Therefore, take the following steps to help your plants adjust to the low relative humidity in your home.

Figure 3. The lower the humidity, the more water is lost from a leaf. At the same temperature of 70ºF, a leaf placed in 10% relative humidity loses more water compared with the leaf placed in 50% relative humidity (top). The higher the temperature, the more water vapor the air can hold, and the more water will be lost from the plant. At the same humidity of 50%, a leaf placed in 90ºF air loses more water compared with the leaf placed in 70ºF air (bottom).

Place plants close together to create a microenvironment with a higher relative humidity.
Use a shallow container filled with water and lava rocks or gravel, which will provide evaporation from a large surface area and increase relative humidity.
Use a humidifier.
Use mist bottles to spray water around the plant; however, in reality, you would need to mist every few minutes for an indefinite amount of time to make a difference in relative humidity around the plant.
The foliage and flowers of plants with hairy leaves should not be sprayed with water. Water on such leaves may stay longer, providing opportunities for disease spores to germinate.

Water

Water Quantity

Learning to water is one of the most important skills in plant care. Applying too much water can suffocate plant roots and too little water causes growth to become erratic and stunted. Watering frequency will depend on the conditions under which the plants are growing. When dealing with how much water to apply, consider the following:

Plant type: A list of plants and their moisture requirements is provided in Table 3. Not all plants are similar in their water requirements. This information, along with the light preference, is usually included on the plant label. For example, a croton, which prefers high light, will likely need more frequent watering compared with a succulent plant such as Opuntia cactus. Both have similar light needs but dissimilar water requirements.
Plant size: Larger plants need more water compared to smaller plants.
Container volume: If the growing container is too small, watering may be required more frequently.
Soil moisture: The amount of water already present in the growing medium will also affect your watering frequency.
Light intensity: Plants under high light transpire more water compared with plants under low light.

Improper watering causes many problems. Containers with saucers may cause an excessive build-up of soluble salts (from the applied fertilizer). High levels of soluble salts can cause damage to plant roots and a decline in growth. Discard any water that had drained in the saucer after irrigation, and apply large quantities of water to the soil to leach the accumulated soluble salts. In deciding when you should water, feel the soil by pushing a finger an inch or so below the surface. If the soil is still moist, no further water is needed. Water devices or water meters are also available to simplify watering.

Water Quality

The quality of the irrigation water is an issue with plants that are susceptible to fluorine and chlorine, such as Corn Plant (Dracaena), Ti Plant (Cordyline), Peacock Plant (Maranta), and Rattlesnake Plant (Calathea) (Figure 4). Alleviate this problem by letting the water stand for several days — so that some chlorine and fluorine will be released from it — before applying the water to the plants. Move susceptible plants away from the edge of the pool to prevent water splashes from reaching the foliage. Do not use susceptible plants around enclosed pools. In general, plants with long linear leaves (such as the Spider Plant) are more susceptible to fluorine.

Figure 4. Symptoms of fluorine damage on the Corn Plant (top) and Ti Plant (bottom) include tip and leaf scorching.

Nutrition

Many indoor gardeners have the same problem with fertilizer that they have with water — they want to give their plants too much. Danger from over-fertilization occurs because any fertilizer used, whether in liquid, powder, or tablet form, will dissolve in soil water and will form salts in the water. When you over-fertilize, the water in the soil becomes so salty that it “burns” the plant’s roots by removing water from them (Figure 5). Excess soluble salts accumulate as a whitish crust on the surface of the growing medium and/or near the rim of the container.

Figure 5. Soluble salt burn is manifested as leaf martinal and tip burn (top). Soluble salts can burn roots; notice that the healthy roots are white, while the dead roots are brown (bottom). Dead roots also invite root diseases.

Before feeding plants, consider the following:

Plant type: Some plants are heavy feeders (e.g., Ficus species), while others need little or no additional fertilizer for months (e.g., succulents).
Volume of soil: The growing medium that is present — smaller pots require less fertilizer compared with larger pots because they contain less soil.
Light intensity: The higher the light levels, the more nutrients needed for plant growth.

A newly purchased, healthy plant rarely needs an immediate application of fertilizer. In most cases, the amount of fertilizer applied by the commercial producer will supply enough nutrients for two to three months in the home. This rule is flexible — if deficiency symptoms are evident, fertilizer application is desirable.

The secret to fertilizing plants indoors is to apply small amounts of fertilizer as the plant grows. Without new growth, the plant has a limited need for more fertilizer. During the winter when light levels are low, a plant’s need for fertilizer reduces. During the summer when light levels increase and the plant is actively growing, its need for fertilizer increases. As a starting point, use about one-fourth the label rate for monthly applications. If the overall plant color becomes lighter green, fertilize every two weeks. If the new growth is dark green but the leaves are small and internodes seem longer than on the older growth, decrease the fertilizer rate.

Varying fertilizer formulations are available to the indoor gardener. Many fertilizers come in specially designed formulas for indoor plants. Generally, they contain a lower percentage of the required mineral elements to prevent over-fertilization problems.

Soil/Growing Medium

The growing medium provides anchorage, water, and minerals. When repotting plants, make sure that the new mix is well drained and aerated, holds water and nutrients well, and is within the right pH range (5.0-6.5). A good potting mix provides ample amounts of oxygen to the root system. Most professional mixes are good to use. Some plants require special mixes, e.g., bromeliads, orchids, and African violets. Either purchase these mixes or prepare your own. Below are some formulas that can be used to prepare a homemade potting mix.

Growing Mix for Flowering House Plants

The following potting mix will grow acceptable flowering plants in most homes for most gardeners:

1 part garden loam or potting soil
1 part sand or perlite or vermiculite
1 part peat moss

Add 2 to 3 ounces of 20 percent superphosphate and ¾ ounce of either bonemeal or dolomitic limestone (by weight) to 4 gallons of potting mix. After sterilizing the soil (see “How to Sterilize Soil”), add 3 tablespoons of a 6-6-6 or similarly balanced fertilizer to every 4 gallons (½ bushel) of mix. Add a minor element formulation according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Growing Mixes for Foliage Plants

Although most foliage plants will grow satisfactorily in the growing mix recommended for flowering house plants, they will grow better if the mix contains a higher percentage of organic matter.

1 part garden loam or potting soil
1 part sand or 2 parts peat moss

1 part pine bark
2 parts peat moss

1 part sand
1 part pine bark
1 part peat moss

Add 2 to 3 ounces (dry weight) of dolomitic limestone to 4 gallons (½ bushel) of mix. For fluoride-sensitive plants, adjust the pH so it is no lower than pH 6.5. Superphosphate contains enough fluoride to cause foliar burn on sensitive plants. After sterilizing the soil, add 3 tablespoons of a 6-6-6 or another fertilizer such as 5-10-5 to each ½ bushel. Plastic-coated fertilizers also can be used; most of them require about 2 ounces per ½ bushel. Add a minor element formulation to the potting mix per the manufacturer’s recommendation.

Growing Mixes for Bromeliads

Bromeliads are plants from Central and South America, which are either epiphytic (they grow on tree branches or in the crotches of trees) or terrestrial (they grow in the ground). Although most of the bromeliads can be grown successfully in foliage plant mixes, most grow better in specially designed soil mixes. Any mix for bromeliads must be well aerated and drained.

2 parts peat moss
1 part perlite
1 part fir bark

1 part peat
1 part pine bark

1 part peat
1 part pine bark
1 part cypress shavings

Add 2 ounces of dolomitic limestone to 4 gallons (½ bushel) of soil mix and a minor element mix. Dissolve 1 ounce of 10-10-10 water-soluble fertilizer in 3 gallons of water. Use this solution after repotting and again monthly when watering. Also, add enough water to fill the vase formed by the overlapping leaf bases.

Growing Mixes for Orchids

Orchids have a great deal in common with bromeliads because they also grow on trees as epiphytes and on the ground as terrestrials. A mix for orchids should have excellent drainage and aeration, too. Some soil mixes that can be used are:

3 parts osmunda tree fern fiber (moisten before use by soaking in water for 12 hours)
1 part redwood bark

5 parts fir bark
1 part perlite

Tree fern slabs may also be used to grow epiphytic orchids.Add 1 ounce (dry weight) of dolomitic limestone per 4 gallons (½ bushel) of soil mix. Do not add fertilizer to the mix. After the plants are potted, add ¼ ounce of liquid 10-10-10 with minor elements per gallon of water and fertilize once every 6 weeks (if the plants are growing in osmunda fern fibers). If plants are growing in fir bark, use a liquid 30-10-10 with minor elements every 6 weeks instead of a 10-10-10 fertilizer.

Growing Mix for Succulents and Cacti

Cacti and other succulents grow best in a well-drained and aerated soil.

2 parts garden loam or potting soil
2 parts sand
2 parts peat
1 part perlite (crushed charcoal can be substituted)

Add 2 ounces (dry weight) of dolomitic limestone to 4 gallons (½ bushel) of soil mix, 2 ounces (by weight) of bonemeal, and ½ ounce of superphosphate. After sterilizing the soil, add a minor element supplement according to the manufacturer’s recommendation.

Growing Mix for Ferns

Ferns grow well in most recommended mixes that have a high proportion of organic matter with good soil aeration and drainage characteristics. Use any of the suggested foliage plant mixes. However, most ferns kept indoors grow better in the following mix:

1 part garden loam or potting soil
1 part peat moss
1 part pine bark
1 part coarse sand

Add 2 ounces (dry weight) of dolomitic limestone to each ½ bushel (4 gallons) of soil mix and ½ ounce of either bonemeal or 20 percent superphosphate. After pasteurizing the soil mix, add minor elements to the mix. Add 1 tablespoon of a 6-6-6 or similarly balanced fertilizer to each ½ bushel of soil mix.

Growing Mix for African Violets

Any number of soil mixes for African violets exist, and most of them will grow high quality plants. A good mix should be well drained and aerated.

2 parts peat moss
1 part vermiculite
1 part perlite

Add 2½ tablespoons of dolomite and 1½ tablespoons of 20 percent superphosphate to each ½ bushel of soil mix. Add 3 tablespoons of a high phosphorous fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or a similar ratio of fertilizer.

How to Sterilize Soil

Sterilization reduces the number of diseased organisms and weeds present in the soil. First, mix the soil with an equal portion of vermiculite or peat moss (otherwise, the soil will become very hard). Next, moisten the mixture and place it in the oven. Allow it to “bake” at 180 degrees F–200 degrees F for 1 hour. Once the soil cools, it is ready to use. To treat soil in the microwave, first mix the portion with an equal amount of vermiculite or peat moss and moisten. Place the mixture in a plastic bag. Next, consult the manufacturer’s manual to determine the amount of time and power level needed to heat the quantity of soil to about 180 degrees F (most portions of soil will generally require about 10 to 15 minutes). Insert a probe into the soil and make sure it has heated to 180 degrees F – 200 degrees F. Allow the soil to cool before using it or storing it for future use.

Make sure that the soil or potting mix you want to sterilize does not contain perlite. At high temperatures, toxic levels of fluoride may be released and subsequently damage your plants.

Acclimatization

Acclimatization is the adaptation of a plant to a new environment, and it is very important for the health and growth of indoor plants. In greenhouses, plants are accustomed to high light, nutrition, water supply, temperatures, and relative humidity — conditions ideal for fast growth (Figure 6). Residential homes, with low-light interiors and low relative humidity, will most likely produce a stressful experience for plants — the greater the difference between the previous environment and the environment of the house, the greater the stress the plant endures.

Figure 6. The two sides of acclimatization — the above-ground (light acclimatization) involves adaptation to low light, which means less growth and less need for nutrients. The below-ground (soil acclimatization) involves reduction of nutrients and water.

Acclimatization is generally done in the greenhouse or the nursery. Plants are grown for a period of time under low-light levels and with fewer nutrients. Because this slows down plant growth, acclimatized plants are not ready for the market as early as nonacclimatized plants. Acclimatized plants cost more compared to nonacclimatized plants, but this is money well spent. Figure 7 and Table 2 describe the symptoms and appearance of acclimatized plants.

Figure 7. Acclimatized Weeping Fig; notice the large, dark green leaves and the elongated internodes.

To acclimatize plants at home, place newly purchased plants in bright areas for at least 3 to 4 weeks and then move them to their final location. Porches and patios are ideal bright places for your plants in the warm months, as long as the plants are not in direct sunlight. The most common symptom occurring in plants placed indoors is defoliation. As long as it is not extensive and it slows down after a few weeks, the plants will adjust to the particular location. Keep in mind, however, that each time the plant is moved around, it will experience an acclimatization period, and such changes may become evident.

Learn as much as possible about the extent of acclimatization of the chosen plants. The retailer should be able to provide this information. When shopping for plants at a garden center, ask if the plants have been acclimatized.

Remember that the most important factors of indoor plant growth are adequate light, fertilizer, and water at reduced rates.

Table 2. Symptoms of acclimatized plants vs. nonacclimatized plants
Acclimatized Plants	Nonacclimatized Plants
Medium to dark green leaves Large leaves Flat leaves Thin leaves Widely spaced leaves	Yellowish to light green leaves Small leaves Partially folder leaves Thick leaves Closely spaced leaves
Long internodes Thin to medium stems Horizontal or slightly flexed leaf position	Short internodes Thick stems Upright leaf position
Few new leaves Wide branch angles	Many new leaves Acute angles

What to Look for When Shopping for Indoor Plants

Purchase only healthy looking plants with medium to dark green foliage (unless foliage is supposed to be a different color).

Avoid plants with unnaturally spotted, yellow, or brown leaves. If the plant is unhealthy at the nursery, chances are that it will die soon after consumer purchase. Look for pests on the undersides of leaves. Remove the plant from the pot and examine the root system. Healthy roots generally are and should be visible along the outside of the soil ball and should have an earthy smell (Figure 8).

Figure 8. Healthy roots are typically white without any discolorations.

Any discolorations, generally brown or blackened roots, are signs of problems. Some plants, such as Dracaenas, have roots with colors other than white. Unhealthy roots also may smell foul. If shopping for ferns, do not be alarmed if you see brown-colored spots or long rows of structures on the lower leaf surface; these “spots” are reproductive structures called spores.

Selecting Containers

Planters can enhance the decorative value of the plants. Consider the following when selecting a planter:

Suitability for the plant’s needs
Suitability for the needs of the individual and the environment
Cost and availability
Strength and durability
Drainage
Weight

The style, shape, and size of the container should complement the plants grown. Small containers are best for small slow-growing plants, while fast-growing plants are better suited for large containers.

Containers can be made from a wide range of materials — terra cotta, clay, plastic, or ceramic. Terra cotta pots, made of fired clay, are some of the most popular choices, with designs ranging from plain to ornate. Plants perform very well in terra cotta pots, as the porous surface allows good air exchange between the plant roots and the environment. Other clay containers (not considered terra cotta) range from gray to brown in color, depending on the clay used. Clay pots can be glazed or unglazed. The glazed pots restrict air exchange but offer more design choices. Unglazed pots evaporate water faster and plants in them may need more frequent watering. Disadvantages of clay containers include their weight (especially large pots) and the chance they will chip or break.

Constructed of materials such as polyethylene, polyurethane, recycled plastic, and fiberglass, plastic pots have evolved from very simple to quite elaborate. They have the advantage of being lightweight as well as chip- and break-resistant. Air exchange and water evaporation rates are generally lower in plastic containers compared with clay containers. Plants in plastic pots will not dry out as quickly as plants in clay pots, increasing the danger of over-watering.

In general, there are two types of containers — ones with drainage holes and ones without. Do not allow plants in containers with drainage holes to sit in saucers filled with water, unless the plant is suspended above the water level by a layer of rocks. To avoid salt buildup, leach the soil once a month by applying a gallon of water to every cubic foot of potting medium; after a few hours, follow with ½ gallon of water. If the potting medium contains garden soil, apply 5 gallons of water per every cubic foot of growing medium.

Containers without drainage holes work well for plants such as the Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum), which needs plenty of water, but they should not be used for cacti and succulents.

Pruning, Grooming, Cleaning, and Repotting

When is the best time to prune? “When the knife is sharp” goes the old saying, and it means using the natural life cycles as a guide. For example, when the plant is growing rapidly and you want to maintain a certain size, prune lightly and frequently, removing shoots or shoot tips when they are small. When removing the very immature tips, the practice is known as pinching. Pinching and light pruning also increase branching of the stem and result in a stockier, fuller plant.

When the plant has outgrown its container, root pruning is advisable. Pull roots away from the root mass then cut them back to within 1 inch of the soil mass. An alternative method is to make three or four vertical cuts 1 inch deep in the soil ball on the opposite sides of the root ball.

If you are re-using containers, make sure that they are clean by washing out any old compost, chemical, or paint residues. Sterilize the container by placing it in a 10 percent bleach solution and rinse well.

A clean plant is a healthy plant. Water flow causes salt accumulation along the leaf margins and/or tips, creating necrotic areas. Dust dulls normal leaf coloration, lessening plant value, but it also shades plant surfaces, reflecting light that can be used in photosynthesis. Dust on lower leaf surfaces may clog stomata (specialized cells involved in water transpiration), inhibiting gas exchange within the leaf. Leaves with thick, shiny cuticles (Croton, Ficus, Peace Lily, Bromeliads) should be cleaned with a damp sponge.

If the plant is small, dip the foliage in tepid water and swirl it around. Water should not be used when cleaning cacti, African violet leaves, and other plants with hairy leaves. Instead, use a clean, small paintbrush brush to remove dust. Remove dead flowers and leaves regularly. Leaves with tip and/or marginal necrosis, such as fluoride damage, should be trimmed to the healthy part.

If the plant has been growing well, it will likely need repotting. The decision to repot should be based on plant appearance—if it is top-heavy, if it fills the container with new shoots, or if it has extensive root growth out of the pot’s drainage holes. Ideally, plants should be repotted in 1 inch increments. Planting into too large a container will give the roots more soil than they initially need. The excess soil will hold extra moisture, creating overly wet conditions. Increase pot size through smaller increments rather than doubling the pot size in one step (Figure 9).

Figure 9. Properly repotted plant.

Pest Management

Very few plants stay pest-free forever. Pest insects are more likely to be encountered on indoor plants than diseases because the interior environment rarely offers favorable conditions for foliar diseases to develop. However, when plants are grown under stressful conditions (such as low light and excess water), soil-borne pathogens often develop.

Scales are ⅛ inch to ⅓ inch long with various colors, depending upon the species. The three main families of scales are armored (the body covering can be separated from the body), soft (the body covering cannot be separated from the body), and mealybugs. Scales suck plant juices from leaves and stems, causing stunting, leaf discoloration, and death of the tissue. As a result of their feeding, sticky “honeydew” (digested plant sap) is excreted (the exception is armored scales). Honeydew offers a growing medium for a fungus called sooty mold, which, when present, can detract from the plant appearance and block light from reaching the leaf surface. Scales are usually inconspicuous; by the time infestation is noticed, the population is usually very large (Figure 10 and Figure 11).

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Figure 10. Various scales.		Figure 11. Various scales.

Mealybugs are soft bodied, 1/5 inch to 1/3 inch long, and covered by white, waxy filaments, giving them a white, cottony appearance. Insects are frequently found on the new growth at the stem apex, where they suck plant juices, causing leaf wilting and abscission (Figure 12). Some species of mealybugs appear first on the undersides of leaves. Mealybugs excrete sticky honeydew, which attracts sooty mold.

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Figure 12. Mealybugs are the major pest problem for houseplants.		Figure 13. Aphids.

Aphids are soft bodied, pear shaped, 1/25 inch to 1/8 inch long, and are usually green in color (but may be pink, blue, brown, yellow, or black). Aphids reside on new growth or on the underside of young leaves, where they suck plant juices, causing deformed, curled growth of new leaves, buds, and flowers. Aphids also excrete honeydew. Aphids are usually wingless but develop winged forms when colonies become too large (Figure 13).

Spider mites are the second most common pest problem on houseplants (Figure 14). The adult females are about 1/50 inch long, hardly visible with the unaided eye. Mites feed on the undersides of young leaves. Infected areas are grayish or yellow speckled.

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Figure 14. Spider mites with webbing.		Figure 15. Thrips.

Webs form as a means of dispersal. Spider mites thrive in hot and dry conditions.

Thrips, while uncommon on houseplants, predominantly feed on plants in patios and other outdoor areas (Figure 15). Thrips are small, slender, 1/25 inch to 1/12 inch long, and tan, black, or brown in color, with lighter markings. Adults and larvae feed on shoot tips, flowers, and leaves by sucking sap and cell contents. Injured tissue has a whitish or silver-flecked appearance due to the light reflecting from the empty cell walls of the dead cells.

What to Do for Plant Problems

Pests

The best method is prevention—purchase pest-free plants.
Remove a light infestation of mealybugs or aphids with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
If outdoor conditions permit, take the affected houseplant outside in a protected area, where natural predators will eventually come and rid the plant of the pest.
Treat with insecticidal soap. The best results occur on plants that have been hardened off in the interior environment. New plants, if they have not been acclimatized (accustomed to lower light, fertilizer, and water levels), are going to be tender and should be treated after the first couple of weeks. Add 2 teaspoons of insecticidal soap per gallon of water and wipe foliage and stems with the soapy water and soft cloth.
Heavy infestations may be too extensive to treat. Discard these plants and do not place them in your compost pile.
Do not introduce beneficial insects indoors! They may work great in the greenhouse with a large number of plants and pests, but there is just not enough food in your home to sustain their population. Most pests can be controlled culturally on indoor plants without the use of chemicals.

Another potential problem in the indoor garden is the occurrence of various diseases. For a disease to happen, three factors must be present: (1) a susceptible plant, (2) a viable pathogen, and (3) a favorable environment. Because the home has very low relative humidity and water is often applied directly to the growing medium (thus keeping the foliage dry), chances of a foliar disease occurring are minimal.

Leaf spots are the most common problem, but they are usually not caused by a disease. For example, leaf scalds occur when water droplets on the leaves act as lenses and focus excessive light in one spot, bleaching the chlorophyll and killing the underlying tissue. Spots with patterns are signs of a disease, including a tan center, dark borders, and/or light-colored borders called “halos.” Dark structures may be present on the underside; these contain a means of dispersal called spores.

Most importantly, avoid causing stress to plants. A healthy plant is much more likely to fight off a disease than a stressed one. Use a simplified key for identifying the causal agent for a disease (Figure 16).

Figure 16. Bacterial diseases cause spots, soft spots, and wilts. The signs of a fungal disease are sooty molds, rusts, mildews, rots, cankers, spots, and wilts. Viral diseases cause mottling, distortion, and dwarfing.

Soil-borne pathogens are commonly found on stressed plants. Soil-borne pathogens affect plants at or below the soil line; disease development is usually well underway before symptoms are noted on plant parts aboveground. Soil-borne diseases commonly occur when the growing medium is kept excessively moist and fertility levels are high. Low light and over-watering create favorable environments for soil-borne diseases indoors.

The most common causes of stress in interiors are low light and over-watering.

Summary of Cultural Care

Table 3 provides a listing of more than 200 plants and their cultural requirements. To summarize cultural care guidelines, the following abbreviations and coding numbers are used. These guidelines apply to actively growing indoor plants.

L = Light

Sunny light areas: At least 4 hours of direct sun
High-light areas: Over 200 ft-c, but not direct sun
Medium-light areas: 75 ft-c to 200 ft-c
Low-light areas: 25 ft-c to 75 ft-c

T = Temperature

Cool: 50°F night, 65°F day temperatures
Average: 65°F night, 75°F day temperatures
Warm: 70°F night, 85°F day temperatures

H = Relative Humidity

High: 50% or higher
Average: 25% to 49%
Low: 5% to 24%

W = Watering

Keep soil mix moist
Surface of soil mix should dry before re-watering
Soil mix can become moderately dry before re-watering

S = Suggested Soil Mix

For specific ingredients, refer to the various growing mixes in “Soil/Growing Medium.” The soil mixes are keyed as follows:

Flowering house plants
Foliage plants
Bromeliads
Orchids
Succulents and cacti
Ferns
African violets and other Gesneriads

Table 3. Indoor plants and their cultural requirements (adopted from McConnell, D. B. 1978)
Botanical Name	Common Name	Cultural Care
Botanical Name	Common Name	L	T	H	W	S
Abutilon hybridum	Flowering Maple	1	1	2	2	1
Acalypha hispida	Chenile Plant	1	2	2	2	1
Achimenes hybrids	Magic Flower	2	2	2	1	7
Acorus calamus	Sweet Flag	2-3	2	2	1	2
Acorus gramineus	Miniature Sweet Flag	2-3	2	2	1	2
Adiantum raddianum	Maidenhair Fern	2-3	2	1	1	6
Adromischus cristatus	Crinkle-Leaf Plant	2-3	2	2	2	5
Adromischus festivus	Plover Eggs	2-3	2	2	2	5
Aechmea fasciata	Silver Vase	2-3	2	2	2	3
Aechmea miniata ‘Discolor’	Purplish Coral Berry	2-3	2	2	2	3
Aechmea ‘Royal Wine’	Royal Wine Bromeliad	2-3	2	2	1	3
Aeschynanthus marmoratus	Zebra Basket Vine	2	2	2	1	7
Aeschynanthus pulcher	Lipstick Vine	2	2	2	1	7
Agave Americana ‘Marginata’	Variegated Century Plant	1	2	3	3	5
Agave victoriae-reginae	Queen Agave	1	2	2	2	5
Aglaonema modestum	Chinese Evergreen	3-4	2	2	2	2
Aglaonema ‘Silver King’	Silver King	3-4	2	2	2	2
Aglaonema ‘Silver Queen’	Silver Queen	3-4	2	2	2	2
Allamanda cathartica	Allamanda	1	2	1-2	2	1
Alloplectus nummularia	Miniature Pouch Flower	2-3	2	1-2	1	7
Aloe aborescens	Candelabra Plant	1	3	3	3	5
Aloe barbadensis	Medicine Plant	1	3	3	3	5
Aloe brevifolia	Brevifolia Aloe	1	3	3	3	5
Ananas comosus	Pineapple	1-2	2	2	1	3
Anthurium clarinervium	Dwarf Crystal Anthurium	2-3	2	1-2	1	2
Anthurium hookeri	Bird’s Nest Anthurium	2-3	2	1-2	1	2
Anthurium scherzeranum	Flamingo Flower	2-3	2	1-2	1	6
Aphelandra squarrosa	Zebra Plant	2	2	2	1	2
Araucaria heterophylla	Norfolk Island Pine	2-3	2	2	1	2
Ardissa crenata	Ardisia	2-3	2	2	1	2
Asparagus densiflorus ‘Myers’	Plume Asparagus	2-3	2	2	2	2
Asparagus densiflorus ‘Sprengeri’	Foxtail Fern	2-3	2	2	2	2
Asparagus falcatus	Sickle Thorn	2-3	2	2	2	2
Aspidistra elatior	Cast Iron Plant	3-4	2	3	2	2
Asplenium daucifolium	Mother Fern	3	2	2	1	6
Asokebuyn budys	Bird’s Nest Fern	3	2	2	1	6
Astrophytum myriostigma	Bishop’s Cap	2	2	3	3	5
Beaucarnea recurvata	Ponytail	1	2	3	3	5
Begonia cubensis	Cuban Holly	2-3	2	2	2	2
Begonia metallica	Metallic Leaf Begonia	2-3	2	2	2	2
Begonia x rex-cultorum	Rex Begonia	2-3	2	2	2	2
Begonia semperflorens	Wax Begonia	1-2	1	2	2	1
Billbergia nutans	Queen’s Tears	2-3	2	2	2	3
Billbergia pyramidalis	Urn Plant	2-3	2	2	2	3
Billbergia zebrina	Zebra Plant	2-3	2	2	2	3
Bougainvillea spp.	Bougainvillea	1	2	3	3	1
Brassaia actinophylla	Schefflera	2-3	2	2	2	2
Brassaia arboricola	Dwarf Schefflera	2-3	2	2	2	2
Caladium spp.	Caladium	2	2	1	1	2
Calathea insignis	Rattlesnake Plant	2-3	2	2	1	2
Calathea makoyana	Peacock Plant	2-3	2	2	1	2
Calathea micans	Miniature Maranta	2-3	2	2	1	2
Calathea roseopicta	Rose Calathea	2-3	2	2	1	2
Calceolaria crenatiflora	Slipperwort	2	1	1	1	1
Callisia elegans	Striped Inch Plant	2-3	2	2	2	2
Carissa grandiflora ‘Bonsai’	Bonsai Natal Plum	1-2	2-3	2	2	1
Carissa grandiflora ‘Boxwood Beauty’	Boxwood Beauty	1-2	2-3	2	2	1
Caryota mitis	Fishtail Palm	2-3	2	2	2	2
Catharanthus roseus	Madagascar Periwinkle	1-2	2	1-2	2	1
Cereus peruvianus	Peruvian Apple Cactus	1	2-3	3	3	5
Ceropegia woodii	Rosary Vine	2-3	2	2	2	5
Chamaedorea elegans	Parlor Palm	3-4	2	2	2	2
Chamaedorea erumpens	Bamboo Palm	3-4	2	2	2	2
Chamaerops humilis	European Fan Palm	2-3	2	2	2	2
Chirita lavandulacea	Hindustan Gentian	2-3	2	1-2	1	7
Chlorophytum comosum ‘Variegatum’	Variegated Spider Plant	2-3	2	2	1	2
Chlorophytum comosum ‘Vittatum’	Spider Plant	2-3	2	2	1	2
Chrysalidocarpus lutescens	Areca Palm	2-3	2	2	1	2
Chrysanthemum morifolium	Chrysanthemum	1	2	2	1	1
Cissus antarctica	Kangaroo Vine	2-3	2	2	2	2
Cissus rhombifolia	Grape Leaf Ivy	2-3	2	2	2	2
Cissus rotundifolia	Wax Cissus	2	2	3	3	2
Cissus striata	Miniature Grape Ivy	2-3	2	2	2	2
Citrofortunella mitis	Calamondin Orange	1-2	1	2	2	1
Clivia miniata ‘Grandiflora’	Kafir Lily	2	2	2	2	1
Codiaeum variegatum	Croton	1	2	1	1	2
Coffeaa arabica	Coffee	2	2	2	2	1
Coleus blumeri	Coleus	2-3	2	2	2	1
Colummea hybrids	Goldfish Plant	2-3	2	1-2	1	7
Cordyline terminalis	Ti Plant	2	1-2	2	2	2
Crassula argentea	Jade Plant	2-3	2	2	2	2
Crassula falcata	Propeller Plant	1-2	2	2	3	5
Crassula hemisphaerica	Arab’s Turban	1-2	2	2	3	5
Crassula lycopodioides	Toy Cypress	1-2	2	2	2	5
Crassula schmidtii	Red Flowering Crassula	2-3	2	2	2	5
Crassula teres	Rattlesnake Tail	2-3	2	3	3	5
Crossandra infundibuliformis	Crossandra	2	2	2	1	1
Cryptanthus bivittatus ‘Minor’	Dwarf Rose Stripe Star	2	2	2	2	3
Cryptanthus fosteranus	Stiff Pheasant Leaf	2	2	2	2	3
Cryptanthus zonatus	Zebra Plant	2	2	2	2	3
Cyrtomium falcatum ‘Rochfordianum’	House Holly Fern	2-3	2	2	2	6
Davallia fejeensis	Rabbit’s Foot Fern	2-3	2	1	1	3
Dieffenbachia ‘Exotica Perfection’	Exotica Perfection	2-3	2	2	2	2
Dieffenbachia maculata	Spotted Dumb Cane	3	2	2	2	2
Dizygotheca elegantissima	False Aralia	2-3	2	2	2	2
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’	Janet Craig	2-4	2	2	2	2
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’	Warneckii	2-4	2	2	2	2
Dracaena fragrans ‘Massangeana’	Corn Plant	2-3	2	2	2	2
Dracaena marginata	Marginata	2-4	2	2	2	2
Dracaena surculosa	Gold Dust Dracaena	2-4	2	2	2	2
Dyckia brevifolia	Miniature Agave	1-2	2	3	2-3	2
Dyckia fosterana	Silver and Gold Dyckia	1-2	2	3	2-3	3
Echeveria agavoides	Molded Wax	1-2	2	3	3	5
Echeveria elegans	Mexican Snowball	1-2	2	3	3	5
Echinocereus reichenbachii	Lace Cactus	1-2	2	3	3	5
Epidendrum atropurpureum	Spice Orchid	2	2	1-2	1	4
Epiphyllum hybrids	Orchid Cacti	2	2	2	2	1
Epipremnum aureum	Golden Pothos	2-4	2	2	2	2
Epipremnum aureum ‘Marble Queen’	Marble Queen	2-4	2	2	2	2
Episcia cupreata	Flame Violet	2	2-3	1	1	7
Episcia dianthiflora	Lace-Flower Vine	2	2-3	1	1	7
Episcia reptans	Scarlet Violet	2	2-3	1	1	7
Euphorbia coeralescens	Blue Euphorbia	2-3	2	2-3	2-3	5
Euphorbia mammillaris	Corncob Cactus	1	2	2-3	3	5
Euphorbia milii splendens	Crown-of-Thorns	1	2	2-3	3	5
Euphorbia pulcherrima	Poinsettia	1-2	2	2	2	1
Euphorbia tirucalli	Milkbush	1-2	2	2	2	1
Fatshedera lizei	Botanical Wonder Plant	2-3	1-2	2	2	2
Fatsia japonica	Japanese Aralia	3-4	1-2	2	2	2
Ficus benjamina	Weeping Fig	1-3	2	2	2	2
Ficus deltoidea	Mistletoe Ficus	2-3	2	2	2	2
Ficus elastica ‘Decora’	Rubber Plant	1-3	2-3	2	2	2
Ficus lyrata	Fiddle-Leaf Fig	1-3	2	2	2	2
Ficus pumila ‘Minima’	Dwarf Creeping Fig	2-3	2	2	2	2
Ficus retusa	Cuban Laurel	2-3	2	2	2	2
Ficus sagittata	Rooting Fig	2-3	2	2	2	2
Ficus willdemaniana	Dwarf Fiddle-Leaf Fig	2-3	2	2	2	2
Fittonia verschaffeltii	Red-Nerved Fittonia	2-3	2	1	1	2
Fittonia verschaffeltii argyroneura	Silver-Nerved Fittonia	2-3	2	1	1	2
Fuchsia hybrida	Fuchsias	2	1-2	1	1	1
Gasteria hybrida	Ox Tongue	2	2	2	3	5
Graptopetalum amethystinum	Jewel Leaf Plant	2-3	2	2-3	3	5
Guzmania lingulata ‘Major’	Scarlet Star	2	2	1	2	3
Guzmania monostachia	Striped Torch	2	2	1	2	3
Gynura aurantiaca ‘Purple Passion’	Purple Passion	2-3	2	2	2	2
Haworthia cuspidata	Star Window Plant	1-2	2	3	2-3	5
Haworthia fasciata	Zebra Haworthia	1-2	2	3	2-3	5
Haworthia subfasciata	Little Zebra Plant	2	2	3	2-3	5
Haworthia truncata	Clipped Window Plant	1-2	2	3	3	5
Hedera canariensis	Algerian Ivy	2-3	1-2	2	2	1
Hedera helix	English Ivy	2-3	1-2	2	2	1
Hemigraphis alternata	Waffle Plant	2-3	2	2	2	2
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis	Chinese Hibiscus	1	2	2	2	1
Hippeastrum hybrids	Amaryllis	2	2	2	2	1
Howea belmoreana	Belmore Sentry Palm	3-2	2	2	2	2
Howea forsterana	Kentia Palm	2-4	2	2	2	2
Hoya carnosa ‘Variegata’	Wax Plant	2-3	2	2-3	2	2
Hoya kerrii	Sweetheart Hoya	2	2	2	2	2
Hyacinthus orientalis	Hyacinth	2	1-2	2	1	1
Impatiens wallerana ‘Variegata’	Busy Lizzie Impatiens	2-3	2	2	2	1
Ixora coccinea	Ixora	1	2	2	2	1
Jatropha integerrima	Peregrian	1	2	2	2	1
Justicia brandegeana	Shrimp Plant	1-2	2	2	2	1
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana	Christmas Kalanchoe	1-2	2	2	2	1
Kalanchoe pumila	Dwarf Purple Kalanchoe	1-2	2	2-3	3	5
Kalanchoe tomentosa	Panda Plant	1-2	2	2-3	3	5
Malvaviscus arboreus	Turk’s Cap	1	2	2	1	1
Mammillaria bocasana	Powder Puff	1-2	2	3	3	5
Manettia inflata	Firecracker Plant	2	2	1-2	2	1
Maranta leuconeura erythroneura	Red Nerve Plant	2-3	2	2	2	2
Maranta leuconeura kerchoviana	Prayer Plant	2-3	2	2	2	2
Mikania ternata	Plush Vine	2-3	2	2	2	2
Monstera deliciosa	Philodendron Pertusum	2-4	2	2	2	2
Monstera obliqua	Window Leaf	3	2	2	2	2
Nautilocalyx lynchii	Black Alloplectus	2-3	2	2	1	7
Neoregelia carolinae ‘Tricolor’	Tricolor Bromeliad	2-3	2	2	2	3
Neoregelia spectabilis	Fingernail Plant	2-3	2	2	2	3
Neoregelia zonata	Zonata	2-3	2	2	2	3
Nephrolepis exaltata ‘Bostoniensis’	Boston Fern	2-3	2	1-2	2	6
Nephrolepis exaltata ‘Fluffy Ruffles’	Fluffy Ruffles	2-3	2	1	2	6
Nidularium innocentii nana	Miniature Bird’s Nest	2-3	2	2	1	3
Opuntia vilis	Little Tree Cactus	1-2	2	3	3	5
Opuntia vulgaris	Irish Mittens	1-2	2	3	3	5
Oxalis flava	Finger Oxalis	1-2	2	2	2	1
Oxalis rubra	Red Oxalis	1-2	2	2	2	1
Pachyphytum oviferum	Pearly Moonstones	1-2	2	2-3	2-3	5
Pachystachys lutea	Yellow Shrimp Plant	2-3	2	2	2	1
Paphiopedilum hybrids	Ladyslipper Orchids	2-3	2	2	1-2	4
Pedilanthus tithymaloides ‘Variegatus’	Devil’s Backbone	2-3	2	2	2	5
Pelargonium hortorum	House Geranium	1-2	1-2	2-3	2	1
Pelargoniium peltatum	Ivy Geranium	1-2	1-2	2	2	1
Pellaea rotundifolia	Button Fern	2-3	2	2	1-2	6
Pellionia pulchra	Satin Pellionia	2-3	2	2	1-2	2
Pentas lanceolata	Egyptian Star Cluster	1	2	2	2	1
Peperomia caperata	Emerald Ripple	2-3	2	2	2	2
Peperomia crassifolia	Leather Peperomia	2-3	2	2	2	2
Peperomia obtusifolia	Baby Rubber Tree	2-3	2	2	2	2
Philodendron bipennifolium	Fiddle-Leaf Philodendron	3-4	2	2	2	2
Philodendron ‘Emerald Queen’	Emerald Queen	2-4	2	2	2	2
Philodendron ‘Florida’	Florida	2-4	2	2	2	2
Philodendron scandens oxycardium	Heart-Leaf Philodendron	2-4	2	2	2	2
Philodendron selloum	Selloum	2-4	2	2	2	2
Phoenix roebelenii	Pigmy Date Palm	2-3	2	2	2	2
Pilea cadierei	Aluminum Plant	2-3	2	1-2	1	2
Pilea microphylla	Artillery Plant	2-3	2	1	1	2
Platycerium bifurcatum	Staghorn Fern	2-3	2	2	2	6
Plectranthus australis	Swedish Ivy	2-3	2	2	2	2
Plectranthus australis	Candle Plant	2-3	2	2	2	2
Podocarpus macrophyllus	Podocarpus	2-3	2	2	2	2
Polyscias balfouriana ‘Marginata’	Variegated Balfour Aralia	2-3	2	2	2	2
Polyscias fruticosa	Ming Aralia	2-3	2	2	2	2
Rhapis excelsa	Lady Palm	2-3	2	2	2	2
Rhododendron hybrids	Azaleas	2	1-2	1	1	2
Ruellia graeciznas	Red-Spray Ruellia	1-2	2	2	2	1
Saintpaulia hybrids	African Violets	2-3	2	2	1	7
Sansevieria parva	Parva Sansevieria	2-3	2	3	2-3	5
Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Hahnii’	Birdsnest Sansevieria	2-4	2	3	2-3	5
Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Laurentii’	Gold-Banded Sansevieria	2-4	2	3	2-3	5
Saxifraga stolonifera	Strawberry Geranium	2-3	1-2	2	2	2
Schlumbergera bridgesii	Christmas Cactus	2-3	2	2	2	2
Schlumbergera truncata	Christmas Cactus	2-3	2	2	2	2
Scindapsus pictus	Silver Pothos	3	2	2	2	2
Sedum spectabile	Showy Sedum	1-2	1-2	2-3	2-3	5
Sempervivum arachniodeum	Cow Web Houseleek	1-2	1-2	2-3	2-3	5
Setcreasea pallida ‘Purple Heart’	Purple Heart	1-2	2	2	2	2
Sinningia speciosa	Gloxinia	2-3	2	1-2	2	7
Soleirolia soleirolii	Baby Tears	2-3	2	1-2	1	2
Spathiphyllum ‘Clevelandii’	Peace Lily	2-3	2	2	1	2
Spathiphyllum ‘Mauna Loa’	Mauna Loa	2-3	2	2	1	2
Stapelia nobilis	Carrion Flower	1-2	2	2-3	2-3	5
Streptocarpus x hybridus	Cape Primrose	2-3	2	2	2	7
Strobilanthes dyeranum	Persian Shield	2-3	2	2	2	2
Syngonium podophyllum	Nephthytis	2-4	2	2	2	2
Trillandsia bulbosa	Dancing Bulb	2	2	2	2	3
Tillandsia lindenii	Blue-Flowered Torch	2	2	2	2	3
Tolmiea menziesii	Piggyback Plant	2	1-2	2	2	2
Tradescantia blossfeldiana	Flowering Inch Plant	2-3	2	2	2	2
Tradescantia sillamontana	White Velvet	2-3	2	2	2	2
Vriesea splendens	Flaming Sword	2	2	2	2	3
Yucca elephantipes	Spineless Yucca	2	2	3	2	2
Zebrina pendula	Wandering Jew	2-3	2	2	2	2

Bamboo Houseplants

2008-11-19T03:59:00.000-08:00

Chirstmas plants

2008-04-30T02:48:00.000-07:00

Poinsettia
Euphorbia pulcherrima - Crown of the Andes

THE Christmas plant. Defining the festive season as much as a daffodil does spring, this native of Mexico was used by the Aztecs to control fevers and dye cloth. The botanical name pulcherrima means "very beautiful", and it is!

Araucaria heterophylla
Norfolk Island Pine

A cousin of the equally interesting monkey puzzle the Norfolk Island Pine is a great indoor conifer. Soft needles cover the tiered branches and stem giving the plant the appearance of an exotic Christmas tree. It can be seen as large specimens outside in warmer countries

Solanum capsicastrum
Winter Cherry

A familiar sight over the winter months this is a fantastic ready decorated Christmas plant. The berries change colour from green through the oranges and finally into a bright red. WARNING the berries are not edible.

Site: A well lit spot with some direct sun. Keep in a coolish spot over the winter

Zygocactus truncatus
Christmas cactus

Absolutely stunning blooms adorn this very easy Christmas favorite. In the wild these plants cling on to the branches of woodland and jungle trees.

Chlorophytum orchidastrum
Green and orange

Brilliant festive and seasonal colours on this uncommon house plant. This plant is related to the spider plant, Chlorophytum comosum. The word Chlorophytum is from the Greek chloros meaning green and phuton for plant. We think that the bright colouration makes it a fantastic Christmas plant to have in the house.

PACHIRA AQUATICA - Fortune Tree

2008-01-22T02:24:00.000-08:00

Pachiras are some of the easiest plants to grow.They will grow from full sun to full shade, even indoors.They can handle quite a bit of water and can also handle some dryness. Pests and diseases also don't seem to affect them. Perhaps the only thing that should be avoided is temperatures bellow freezing even though they will tolerate them for short periods of time.
The bottom line is Pachiras require average care from water to fertilizer.Today we find Pachiras sold in 2 different forms.-One in which several plants are planted in a single pot and their trunks are braided. They are meant to be grown potted and are often used as in indoor plant.
-Another way is for landscape use. In this case there is only 1 plant per pot and the Pachira will develop into a full grown tree. When mature, Pachiras provide very dense shade and will produce beautiful white flowers.

FAMILY : Malvaceae
ORIGIN : Tropical America
TYPE/USES : large tree or potted plant
SIZE : up to 75 feet
GROWTH RATE :
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS : full sun to shade
WATER REQUIREMENTS : average
MIN. TEMP. : low 30°s
FLOWER : warm months of the year

HAPPY NEW YEAR

2007-12-31T04:12:00.000-08:00

Snake Plant - Sansevieria

2007-12-25T04:18:00.000-08:00

Very showy and unusual variety of common "Mother-in-Law-tongue". Leaves are tall rounded deep green spikes. Easily grown in any well-drained soil slowly multiplying to create a dense mass. Stately blooms pushing up to 36 inches tall flower spike. The flowers open only during the night and are very fragrant. This plant is drought-tolerant, suitable for growing indoors and for xeriscaping. Propagation by dividing rhizomes

Genus of about 60 species of stemless, xerophytic rhizomatous, evergreen perennials from dry, rocky habitats in tropical and subtropical Africa, Madagascar, India, Indonesia and South Florida. Sansevieria is an easy-to-grow plant. This plant is known as Mother-in-Law's Tongue in Britain and Snakeskin Plant in the US. It will grow in bright sunchine or shade, withstand dry air, draughts and periods without water, and it rarely needs repotting. It can, however, be quite easily killed by prolonged overwatering in winter and prolonged exposure to near freezing temperatures.

CARISSA GRANDIFLORA 'HORIZONTALIS'

2007-12-16T02:22:00.000-08:00

CARISSA GRANDIFLORA 'HORIZONTALIS'
Natal Plum

FAMILY : Apocynaceae
ORIGIN : Tropical Africa
SIZE : 5'
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS : full sun to shade
WATER REQUIREMENTS : average to low
MIN. TEMP. : 35°
FLOWER : warmer months of the year

ALOE ARBORESCENS

2007-12-16T02:14:00.000-08:00

According to some studies, this Aloe is 200% richer than the Aloe Vera in respect to medicinal properties. It also makes a beautiful ornamental plant with 2' spikes of reddish flowers.
FAMILY: Liliaceae
ORIGIN: South Africa
AVERAGE SIZE: 8'-10'
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS : full sun
WATER REQUIREMENTS : keep dry
MIN. TEMP.: high 20's
FLOWER: Dec-Feb

Choose Your Office Plant

2007-11-19T02:50:00.000-08:00

Anyone who keeps houseplants knows that indoor foliage can brighten a dull, dreary atmosphere and create a refuge from everyday stresses. Plants can also remove common toxins from indoor environments and add oxygen to stale air. Given these benefits, you'd think that indoor plants would be as common in offices as staplers and annoying coworkers!

Sadly, most of us know only two kinds of office plants: the silk ones and those dusty brown fire hazards on top of the filing cabinet. While many of these leafy casualties could have been saved with proper care, it's critical to choose plants that can thrive in the challenging office biome. With a little forethought, you can choose the perfect plant to improve your workplace's aesthetics and your health.

For selecting an office plant you must give importance for the following steps

1. Assess your office lighting. Obviously, a plant that needs full sun doesn't have much of a chance in a windowless copy room, but figure out where you can put plants in your office and determine how much natural sunlight they'll get on average. However, when in doubt, low light (shade loving) plants will do fine in most office settings (such as the top of a cubicle in the center of the floor, away from the windows). Some plants will do well if placed near the fluorescent lights in the office. If you have access to untinted south-facing windows, you'll have more flexibility in choosing plants.

2. Decide how much space will be designated for the plant. Get an idea both of the floor or counter space and the vertical space available.

3. Estimate how much care you'll be able to devote to the plant. Some plants require more maintenance than others, and sometimes it can be difficult to find time in the workday to water or prune them. Be honest with yourself in appraising how much attention you and your coworkers can give to the plant(s).

4. Determine the purpose of your plants. Different plants can do different things for you. If you mainly want to brighten a space, you'll probably want a flowering plant or one with colorful, variegated leaves. If you're looking to remove as much carbon dioxide--or add as much oxygen--as possible, you should look for a green plant with a lot of leaf area. Certain plants, such as the Areca palm, Kentia palm or Dracaena 'Janet Craig' are exceptionally effective at removing airborne chemicals commonly found in offices.

5. Set your plant budget. While some plants can be very expensive individually, the more plants you plan to own, the more important your budget will be. Figure out how much you want to spend purchasing the plants. Also figure out how much effort you can put into their long-term maintenance.

6. Research potential plants. Once you have your specifications, you can take them to your local garden store and ask a professional to suggest some plants that might work. You can also research plants on the internet to determine which will match your needs. Remember to think about the long term (sure, that little umbrella tree (Schefflera arboricola) will fit on top of your desk now, but what happens when it's full-grown?).

7. Some plants (like many orchids and bonsai) have very specific light, humidity, and temperature needs. If this is your first office plant, try something easier (like philodendron or pothos).

8. Purchase your plants. You can buy from your local garden store or farmers' market, or you can do your shopping online. Whichever you choose, make sure you get healthy-looking plants that are free of mold, rot and pests. This is easier to do if you can see the plants, of course, but many online stores will offer you a guarantee to offset the risk.

Help plants to settle in their new homes

2007-11-15T05:44:00.000-08:00

When houseplants don't grow well, or they start to look sick, it may be time to give them a new home.

A houseplant's home is its pot. The plants may have outgrown that pot, which means it's time to leave the starter home and move to a larger abode.

"Houseplants eventually get root-bound, when the pot is so full of roots that plants have no more space in which to grow," writes author and gardening columnist Julie Bawden-Davis. Also, salts can build up, and that can harm plant health.

Now through summer, as houseplants actively grow, is a good time to repot them, says Ms. Bawden-Davis in her new book, Indoor Gardening the Organic Way (Taylor Trade Publishing, $19.95).

And though talking your plants through the move to their new home, as the author admits doing, is not standard gardening practice, the book has great ideas and techniques for repotting houseplants, whether you are an organic gardener or not.

She recommends repotting when you see one or more of the following:

•Roots coming out the bottom of the pot, or a mass of tangled roots in the pot.

•Constant thirst and soil that dries out quickly.

•Water rushing through the pot when watering.

•Sluggish growth.

•Top-heaviness, which indicates the plant has outgrown the pot.

•Staining on the soil surface, indicating salt buildup.

Philodendrons - indoor plants

2007-11-14T02:37:00.000-08:00

Most philodendrons are climbers, but not this one. Tree philodendron (also called split leaf philodendron) grows as a large semiwoody shrub with enormous glossy leaves and a single erect unbranched stem that tends to fall over and sprawl when the plant gets large. The robust stem bears stout aerial rootlets between conspicuous leaf scars. The leaves are up to 3 ft (0.9 m) long, deeply dissected into many wavy-margined lobes and held on long petioles. Older and larger plants develop leaves that are more deeply dissected and more ruffled. The inflorescence consists of a 1 ft (0.3 m) long purplish red spathe enclosing an upright spadix with many tiny petalless flowers. Specimens grown indoors rarely flower.

Plant for the Bathroom - Monstera deliciosa

2007-11-13T02:22:00.000-08:00

It has a thick stem growing up to 20 m height and large, leathery, glossy, heart-shaped leaves 25-90 cm long by 25-75 cm broad. On young plants the leaves start out smaller and entire with no lobes or holes, but older plants soon produce lobed and holed leaves. The fruit is up to 25 cm long and 3-4 cm diameter, looking like a green ear of corn lined with hexagonal scales. When it first flowers, the fruit contains so much oxalic acid that it is poisonous, causing immediate and painful blistering and irritation, swelling, itching, and loss of voice. It takes a year for the fruit to ripen, at which point it is safe to eat